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Clothing Care Tips:
Garment Care
Blouses
Coats, outerwear
Dresses
Fabric care
Knits
Neckties
Pants, Shorts
Shirts
Skiwear
Suits, Sports coats, blazers
Sweaters
Swimwear
Travel
Other
Blouses
Q. “A cotton blouse that I haven’t worn for a while has a
mysterious tear. I don’t recall snagging it on anything. What could
have happened to it?”
A. Mysterious holes sometimes develop in cellulose fabrics such
as cotton, linen, rayon, acetate and blends of these fabrics. The damage
may appear as a circular hole, tear, or weak, thin area with no particular
shape. There are two basic causes: one is the result of the fabric coming
in contact with a strong alkaline bleach such as chlorine. This can occur
if clothing gets wet from swimming pool water, for example. Acidic substances
can also cause damage, including fruit juices, soft drinks or foods like
tomatoes or lemons. Sulfuric and hydrochloric acids can also cause damage.
It’s important to clean clothing quickly after coming in contact
with these substances.
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Coats, outerwear
Q. “Can you offer some tips on how I can make my coats last longer
and still look sharp?”
A coat is something that people see you wearing every day. Here are some
practical precautions to keep your winter coat looking its best:
• Wear scarves to avoid soiling the collar––particularly
for leather and suede coats.
• Avoid hanging the coat by its “neck” on a coat rack.
Use sturdy hangers (not wire) and allow “breathing” space
in the closet.
• Air-dry wet coats at room temperature. Never expose to heat
unless directed by the care label.
• Treat stains immediately to keep them from setting.
• Clean the coat at least once during the season.
Q. “I was looking at my winter coats and wonder what you
might suggest for taking care of them?”
A. There are some practical precautions to take with winter coats. Here
are a few important ones:
- Wear scarves to avoid soiling the collar––particularly
for leather and suede coats.
- Clean the coat whenever it is soiled and at least once during the
season and once before storing in the spring.
- Air dry wet coats at room temperature. Never expose to heat unless
directed by the care label.
- When cleaning, make sure you follow the care label instructions.
Many times, winter coats don’t fare too well. They get pushed to
the back of the closet. We’ve even seen some left hanging on
hooks where they get out of shape. Proper care depends on the fabric.
Coats made of wool, leather, and suede may require more care than those
made of other fibers. You can hang them on padded hangers (helps keep
the shape) in a well-ventilated closet. But have them cleaned before putting
them away. You want stains to be removed before setting. You may take
a coat out the first time that cold weather hits, only to find a “hidden”
stain. It wasn’t visible when you put the coat away, but time
caused it to appear. Finally, never, never store coats (or any garments)
in plastic bags. Doing so promotes light damage and mildew. It also
dries out leather coats.
Q. “I picked up my all-weather jacket from the cleaners and
the fabric looked blistered. The marks were all over the jacket.
What happened?”
A. After the cleaning and/or steam finishing process, noticeable damage
and loss of the smooth fabric shell surface appears on many all-weather
coats and jackets. In some cases, the surface of the fabric shows small
points of indentations or “blisters” that appear randomly
throughout the garment. In other instances, there can be severe separation
or loss of coating which causes waves, puckers, or bubbles of the shell
fabric.
Did the drycleaner cause the problem? In most cases, the problem was
caused by a coating or synthetic facing applied to the reverse side to
aid in wind resistance, water-repellency, and to give body and shape.
Some of these materials, or the bonding agents used for construction,
are not resistant to drycleaning solvents or the heat of drying or pressing
after cleaning or laundering. There is no way for the drycleaner to determine
in advance if the suggested care process is appropriate for the particular
fabric.
Q. “I’ve been disappointed in the water repellency of
my winter raincoat; on rainy days my clothing has gotten wet. What
do you suggest?”
A. Raincoats and most foul weather outerwear are water-repellent and
not waterproof. Whereas, the fabric of waterproof clothing (such as
GORETEX®
and Conduit™) is waterproof, a surface repellent is applied to
most fabrics to create water repellency.
There are various qualities of repellent and different ways to apply them.
The drycleaner may be able to repel the coat twice or make suggestions
for improvement. There are also products available at hiking and ski stores
that can be applied for further protection. Be sure to test a small area,
if you try one. Spray on a small, concealed area and let it dry. Then
put water on it to test for repellency.
If the rain is very heavy, it is unlikely that any water repellent
coat will keep you completely dry. It’s still a good idea to
carry an umbrella.
Q. “I have a lightweight jacket that really comes in handy for much
of the year. I’ve had it over four years and it has remained in
style. I was very disappointed when I got it back from my drycleaner with
bubble-like wrinkles that I can’t smooth out. What can I do?”
A. It sounds as if the bonded foam inner layer has separated from the
shell fabric during cleaning. Age is a factor in foam laminates because
the foam itself has a limited life cycle and deteriorates over time. If
your jacket had not exceeded its life expectancy, then the manufacturer
should be held responsible; however it sounds as if it may be time to
purchase a new one.
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Dresses
Q. I have a dress with a sequin trim that I want to have cleaned. What
do I need to know about cleaning this type of dress?
A. This is the season for sequins! The first step is to read the clothing
care label. Some labels say, “spot clean only.” Some sequins
are sensitive to heat and may curl or distort during the cleaning process.
However, the major problem is the possible loss of sequins if they are
glued to the garment rather than sewn. If glued, the garment cannot be
drycleaned since the glue can dissolve. In this case, it may be possible
to wetclean the garment, depending on the particular type of cloth.
You should know that after cleaning, sequin trim might experience a
color change. It may occur the first time the garment is cleaned or
it may be progressive. It can occur whether it’s dry- or wet-cleaned.
In any case, your cleaner should test the garment before proceeding with
cleaning.
Q. “While taking an appetizer at a cocktail party, I
spilled my drink on my silk dress. Embarrassed, I quickly found some
water and tried to rub it out. The spot only became worse and now the
dress is ruined. What should I have done?”
A. If you are wearing a silk garment, blotting the stain with a dry
cloth is the only safe choice. After blotting, have the garment dry
cleaned as soon as possible––within 24 hours if possible.
Be sure to point out the spot to the dry cleaner along with what was
spilled.
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Fabric care
Q. “How can I tell the difference between real and imitation
suede?”
A. Natural suede is made by the abrasion of leather to produce a napped,
velvet-like surface. Imitation suede is made one of two ways––synthetic
fibers in a non-woven construction or with a flocked pile adhered to a
woven or knit base. The flocked pile type is easily recognized by the
base fabric. The non-woven is often difficult to distinguish from the
real thing. If both sides look alike, chances are it’s imitation
since the real suede tends to have an uneven surface on the inside.
Also, if the clothing care label indicates that the garment should
be cleaned like any other fine fabric, it is probably imitation. Real
suede should be cleaned by an acceptable leather-cleaning process.
Imitation is usually labeled dry-cleanable.
Q. It’s that time of year to wear more wool garments. Do you
have any suggestions for proper care?
A. After each wearing brush your garment with a soft but firm bristled
brush to remove the dust that collects between the fibers. When hanging
garments, be sure to empty pockets, hang on a wooden hanger in a space
where they can breathe. Wool needs air to renew its shape. Always fold
knit garments and store flat or folded over a padded rod of a hanger to
prevent shape distortion.
If you notice any surface stains rinse with cool water before putting
away. Clean wool garments regularly – cleaning removes soil that
is abrasive to fibers.
Q. What is the best way to clean spandex fabrics?
A. Spandex is a synthetic fiber that has high elongation and recovery
properties, which means it can be stretched five to six times its original
length. Because of this characteristic, it can return to its original
length without loss to its “springiness.” Despite its ability
to stretch, spandex can experience a high degree of shrinkage if it is
not cleaned properly. It’s important to follow the care label
instruction closely. If the care label indicates that laundering is
an acceptable process, avoid using chlorine bleach since this can lead
to discoloration, strength loss and eventually cause the spandex fiber
to break. Since high heat (446 degree F) can melt spandex, avoid high
temperatures during pressing.
Q “How should I clean Rayons and “washable silks?
A. The answer (as you might imagine) is a bit complicated––but
taking time to get the facts may help avoid an unpleasant situation. Both
Rayon and “washable silks” dry clean very well. Washing, however,
may damage garments containing sizing and/or dyes that are sensitive to
water. To avoid unnecessary problems, follow the care label on the garment.
Then, if a dye should run, for example, you can return it to the store
where it was purchased indicating that you followed the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Q. What should I be aware of in caring for silk garments?
A. Silk is easily degraded by mineral acids. This means that perspiration,
for example, causes discoloration and weakening of the silk fabric.
Here’s
the important point: To help avoid unnecessary degrading, silks should
be cleaned immediately after soiling to avoid staining.
Aluminum chloride, a common ingredient in deodorants and antiperspirants,
will also stain silk. To help avoid staining, let deodorants dry thoroughly
before putting on a silk garment. Alkaline substances, such as soap, toothpaste,
shampoos and other alkaline toiletries, may irreversibly spot silk.
By all means, do not bleach silk with chlorine bleaches. Silk deteriorates
over time with exposure to oxygen in the air. To help avoid this problem,
silks should be stored in dry, dark, and cool conditions, preferably in
acid-free paper.
Q. Linen clothes are so cool during the summer, but they wrinkle badly.
Is there anything that can reduce the wrinkling?
A. On a hot, humid summer day, a linen outfit is indeed cool and thin,
but your outfit will wrinkle. Perspiration, combined with the pressure
of sitting, will cause deep wrinkles in this natural fabric. You can
help reduce the wrinkles by hanging up the clothes, rather than depositing
them in a pile for your next trip to the drycleaner. Your drycleaner
can let you know if starch and sizing will help. There are many factors
that come into play when caring for linen–the degree the fabric was pre-shrunk,
composition of thread and trimmings, the dye used, tightness of weave
and construction of textile–that will influence the effectiveness
of treatments for crease resistance. Wearing it soft and natural may
be the best answer.
Q. “My husband has a lovely cashmere scarf that he only
wears on special occasions. I insist on cleaning it at the end of the
winter season and he says I am foolish because he has not worn it frequently.
Who is correct?”
A. You are. Cashmere is a fine wool blend that is soft and lightweight
and ideal for special occasions. Even if the scarf is worn only once,
perspiration, body oil, moisture and food stains attract insects that
can cause damage to your scarf when it is stored for the season.
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Knits
Q. “What is the best way to keep knits looking good and
maintain their shape?”
A. 1. Keep knits clean. Treat stains immediately. When spills are blotted
immediately and professionally removed, stains are not as likely to develop..
2. If a sweater or cape gets wet (and they do!), let it dry at room temperature
away from the heat and then brush with the nap.
3. Store knits on a closet shelf or in a drawer, when possible. Light
and medium weight knits can be hung over padded hangers, but heavier
knits tend to stretch when hung. Never hang knits from the shoulders,
and be sure to empty the pockets, and remove the belt. Weight only
serves to distort a sweater’s shape. Also, close zippers.
4. Gently brushing woolens and other sturdy knits with a soft, light-bristled
clothing brush will remove dust, pollen, and crusty food and help keep
them fresh longer.
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Neckties
Q. “Can Anton’s clean neckties successfully? I
have taken several to other cleaners and have been disappointed in
the results.”
A. Proper necktie cleaning takes special care. We give neckties extra
attention, blocking them carefully, while making the edges look as soft
as possible. Our customers seem pleased with the way we handle their neckties.
It isn’t just stains that soil a tie. Every time you tie a knot,
soil and oils from your fingers are left on the tie. A good practice
is to wash your hands before handling a necktie.
Q. “How can I be sure that the dyes in a necktie won’t
run? I have had this happen several times when trying to take out
a spot with water.”
A. Many neckties contain water-soluble dyes. They bleed when they come
in contact with moisture. Unfortunately, there is no way to know how a
dye will react to water before you purchase a necktie. Most people find
it out only when trying to remove a food or beverage stain.
Q. I have become quite attached to two of my neckties and wear
them frequently. They are stained, but I hesitate to clean them. What
do you recommend?
A. It happens to all of us. We have a favorite tie and no matter how
careful we are, we spill food or a drink on it. And you are correct–the
bias cut and delicate fabrics (most ties are silk) make ties difficult
to clean and properly pressing ties is an art. Unfortunately, not all
stains can be removed. But here are a few suggestions to help you extend
the life of your favorite ties.
1. When you remove your tie, don’t pull it off, but remove it
gently. If you loosen the knot enough to slip the tie over your head,
you avoid pulling the tie around your shirt collar. Each time you pull
it around the collar, the bias cut weakens, the material is stressed
and the interlining can separate from the shell. Over time, your tie
will become uneven or rippled.
2. When shopping for new ties, remember ties that are the same color as
the lining provide the easiest care. Although dark ties may hide more
stains at first, as the stains age they become darker and more obvious.
A yellow tie with any shade of red or dark blue is more likely to bleed
when it gets wet than other color combinations.
3. If you get a stain on the tie, immediately blot with a clean dry
cloth. Do not use a napkin and do not rub. Don’t apply water or liquid
to the stain–it may set the stain or cause the colors to bleed.
Bring it to a drycleaner as soon as possible–the longer a stain
remains, the tougher it is to treat and remove.
4. Discuss your ties with the drycleaner. If the tip has become uneven,
the edges frayed or a stain has set, ask what the results of cleaning
will be. If the tie can’t be restored to your satisfaction, it
may be time to retire the old favorite.
Q. “Ties are not my favorite piece of clothing, but I
have to go to some formal events this summer. Can you give me some
hints about selecting the best ties that will wear well?”
A. Ties, like all clothing, are a personal decision. Your selection should
suit your taste in order for you to feel comfortable. But there are some
factors that can prolong the life of a tie:
1. When shopping for new ties, remember the lining should be lighter or
the same color as the tie. Dark linings behind light colors, solid or
printed, may bleed through during stain removal.
2. Although dark ties may hide more stains at first, as the stains age
they become darker and more obvious.
3. A yellow tie with any shade of red or dark blue is more likely to bleed
when it gets wet than other color combinations.
4. If you get a stain on the tie, immediately blot with a clean dry
cloth. Do not use a napkin and do not rub. Don’t apply water or liquid
to the stain–it may set the stain or cause the colors to bleed.
Bring it to a drycleaner as soon as possible–the longer a stain
remains, the tougher it is to treat and remove.
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Pants, Shorts
Q. “Today, a good pair of denim jeans is a staple in most
wardrobes. What's the best method of care? ”
A. While the variety of brands, styles, shades and hues is enough to
make one’s head spin, the costs can be equally as daunting. To
keep your jeans in top form requires proper care, which may vary with
your investment.
Professional drycleaning keeps jeans looking newer, fitting consistently
and lasting longer and is a good choice for your dress and expensive
jeans. They will stay soft and won’t shrink or become “thin” as
quickly.
Warning!!!
Men’s Sean John black denim jeans
RN# 108086
The Drycleaning and Laundry Institute has issued a warning regarding
Men’s Sean John black denim jeans, RN# 108086. While the care
label states “dry clean,” the black dye bleeds when drycleaned
in certain solutions. The manufacturer is responsible since the dye
in the fabric cannot withstand the recommended care instructions without
severe color change.
If you own the jeans, the best course of action is to return them to
the retailer or manufacturer.
Q. “Khakis are a staple in my business wardrobe. I sometimes wash
them at home and was surprised a new pair of “wrinkle-free”
khakis was ruined in the wash. Why did this happen?”
A. Khakis are a great wardrobe staple for men and women. In addition
to their comfort, they are easy to dress up or dress down. In the past
few years, khakis have been made with several new fabrics. In the past
they were commonly made of natural cotton and while this is still a
popular material today, khakis are also made of micro fiber, rayon
blends and cotton blends. Some of these fabrics cannot be washed and
common stains such as food and spills that were routinely removed from
cotton are more problematic. Be sure to read the care instruction before
washing.
Q. “I recently had a pair of spandex slacks drycleaned and
they came back with a lint-like appearance. What can be done about
this?”
A. Elastic fibers such as spandex are used to provide stretch power
in garments, while adding comfort, fit and fashion. The lint-like appearance
you see is caused by elastic yarn protruding from the fabric’s
surface. If the yarn has broken or stretched, elastic yarn can slip
out of the fabric during a drycleaning process. The important thing
to remember is to follow the care label instructions. If the instructions
are followed, the manufacturer bears responsibility for the damage.
Q. “What can you tell me about pants that are purported to
be wrinkle-free and to actually repel stains?”
A. The most authoritative answer comes from a study by the International
Fabricare Institute’s Garment Analysis Laboratory. They tested both
Dockers® pants with Stain Defender™ and 100% Nano-Care™
dress pants.
Here’s a brief summary of the test results: “In terms of stain
resistance, both the Nano-Care™ and Dockers® pants with Stain
Defender™ performed quite well. As for being wrinkle-free or wrinkle-resistant,
in IFI’s opinion, neither pant lived up to the advanced billing.”
Both pants required pressing to take out seam puckering after cleaning
and to give them crisp creases.
Q. “I just noticed that a pair of my khakis has a “dry clean
only label.” What a surprise! Is it a mistake?”
A. It’s no mistake. While there are many “all cotton”
casual khakis on the market, we’re seeing more “dress”
khakis made from micro fiber, rayon blends and linens. And with them come
care label instructions to “dry clean.” Washing these pants
may be harmful, causing shrinkage and fabric damage. So, before tossing
a new pair of khakis in the washing machine, check the care label first.
Also, these non-cotton fibers may be more susceptible to staining from
food, liquids and even raindrops.
Q. “I’ve only worn a pair of slacks a few times and find tiny
‘fuzz balls’ on the seat and thighs. Even after washing, I
can’t seem to get them off. Is this normal? What can I do about
it?”
A. Frankly, it is not acceptable for this to happen. Yet, it does.
In fact, it is far too common in the clothing industry. It is caused
by friction or abrasion during wear and occurs in such areas as under
the arms, collar, inner thighs and elbows. Sometimes careful steaming
and brushing with a stiff bristled brush will remove some of the
fuzz balls. If the garment is quite new and had limited wear, the
manufacturer should be responsible because of the limited serviceability
of the fabric. Surprising as it may seem, manufacturers can make
mistakes in fabric selection and discover problems (such as fuzz
balls) only after receiving customer complaints.
Q. “I dropped off a pair of tan pants at my cleaner.
When I got them back, they looked more green than tan. Why would the
color change? Is it something the cleaner used on the pants?”
A. Very often two or more colors are combined to give a fabric a desired
shade. When it comes to the care of tan pants, it is important to check
the care label. If an item of clothing such as your tan pants is washed
according to the care instructions, it should not lose or change color.
If they are drycleaned, a component of the dye is removed exposing
a green color. This can also be a progressing condition that only appears
after several cleanings.
Q. “When I washed a new pair of bright green capri pants, the
color faded. What can I do?”
A. Manufacturers sometimes use dyes that aren’t colorfast.
Always check the care label for cleaning directions. Turning the
garment inside out and washing in the coolest water possible will
often help reduce fading.
Q. “I love all the new options in shorts. The knee length and Bermuda
shorts, particularly in the whites and neutral colors that are hot this
summer, are great options for special outdoor events. Many seem to be
a combination of cotton and lycra and say “dry clean only”.
Do I have to dry clean them?”
A. Although some cotton and lycra shorts can be washed and air dried,
it is always best to follow the clothing care instructions. Cotton/spandex
can shrink when washed and have wrinkles after drying that are difficult
to iron out.
Q. “I’ve heard that plain, simple dark jeans are “in.”
My denim jeans always seem to fade, streak and look sloppy. How can
I keep them looking fresh?”
A. According to New York fashion writer, Stephanie Rygorsky, “Jeans
are going to get darker and darker for the fall.”
Although fading and streaking occurs because the dye may not be completely
colorfast and in some cases does not properly penetrate the yarns.
Rubbing off the surface color exposes the undyed portion of the fibers
and white streaks and light areas appear. Over time, more of the dye
is lost, and the jeans fade. The shade variance may be uneven with
the edges and seams appearing frosted or having a more pronounced lightening.
To help reduce fading, turn the jeans inside out and wash in the coolest
water possible. Cold water will reduce the shrinkage and fading. Hang,
rather than fold your jeans, because a white line will eventually appear
in the crease area. Avoid rubbing stains as this can pull the color.
But for dress jeans or to extend the life of your jeans, drycleaning
is your best option. It helps keep them soft and they do not shrink
or become thin as quickly. Drycleaning will also preserve the color,
fit and look of new jeans longer than washing.
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Shirts
Golf Shirts
A great choice for golf attire is a smart casual polo shirt.
Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of your golf shirts
and keep them looking good at the end of the season.
- Think comfort and style. Choose a fabric that breathes easily,
like cotton, and a fit that allows you to comfortably move through
a full swing.
- Avoid dark colors. Long exposure to sun on a nice day on
the fairway can 'bleach' out the dark hues in your golf shirt. While
the sun can take its toll on lighter colors, the damage is more apparent
on darker garments.
- Don't delay cleaning or hand laundering your shirts after a day
of golf to prevent permanent staining. Perspiration, deodorants and
tree sap can interact with the dyes in your shirt and cause color
changes and discoloration.
Remember, perspiration stains may not appear right away.
As the damp area dries, it leaves an invisible stain that will darken
and harden with time, weakening a garment's fabric.
- Apply suntan lotion and let it be fully absorbed into your skin
before putting on your shirt or shorts. When lotions come into
contact with your clothes, they can cause discoloration.
Q. “One of my favorite pinstriped shirts
is about two years old and it looks as if bleach were spilled on
it. What caused the loss of color?”
A. If you examine the shirt closely, you will probably find that
the colored pinstripe yarns are missing, leaving a skeletal framework
of the white yarns. The colored yarns are dyed with fiber-reactive
or sulfur-based dyes that can degrade with repeated laundering. As
the shirt nears its life expectancy, the colored yarns can simply
wash away. While there are many factors that affect the useful life
of a shirt, the average shirt begins to show signs of wear at 35
to 50 washings.
For more tips on shirts, click here.
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Skiwear
Q. “Our family is taking up skiing. Do you
have any suggestions to prolong the life of our skiwear?”
A. Skiwear is an investment and most is made of high quality fabrics
that will last if properly cared for. Constantly exposed to the elements,
skiwear needs to be cleaned often to prevent permanent soiling. Pay
close attention to the care label. Skiwear is complex with outer fabrics,
inner linings, and protective coatings and it is critical that the
care routine you use is right for the fabric. Pay careful attention
to rips, tears and weak areas–they can become major issues if
not identified early.
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Suits, Sports
coats, Blazers
Q. “It seems that suits have returned. My office is requiring that
I wear a suit and since I tend to perspire a lot, I’m worried
about the warmer weather. What do you suggest?”
A. The pendulum of workplace fashion is swinging back to suits, blazers
and dress shirts. Fortunately, men’s suit makers have introduced
new materials to add comfort in the warmer months. We see poplin suits
that have polyester fibers designed to move moisture away from the body;
“featherweight” suits that are made with higher yarn counts
and lower weight fabrics; suits made of high tech fabrics that are
similar to the wicking material used in running clothes; and suits
with linings removed or partially removed.
It’s best to explore all the options to see what is most comfortable
for you.
Q. “I had my sport coat cleaned and several of the yarns pulled
out during cleaning. These yarns are thicker than the rest of the
yarns and are soft. What happened to my jacket?”
A. Some manufacturers are using soft, fuzzy chenille yarns in men’s
clothes. The chenille yarns, which are not securely or tightly woven
into the fabric, pull out, resulting in a snagged appearance. This
damage may have originated from rubbing and abrasion in use, but may
be further aggravated by the necessary agitation in cleaning.
Q. “What happened to my nice wool blazer? It’s not as
soft as it used to be.”
A. Many garments, such as blazers and winter coats, have a very soft
surface nap. Sometimes a degree of matting or distortion of the nap
occurs that changes the texture and appearance. Usually, distorted
nap appears as pilling or balling up of the fabric surface with the
texture becoming rough or matted. This often occurs from wear or
abrasion or overall from the agitation of cleaning. Most soft napped
wearing apparel has an average life expectancy of 2-3 years, but
the overall appearance and texture should not be permanently altered
in this span of time. There are ways to soften the nap, including
steaming and brushing. If soft-napped garment feels rough after cleaning,
it was probably pressed too long and hard and can be easily corrected
with re-cleaning and proper steaming.
Q. “I purchased a matching skirt, pants and jacket as separates.
After having the skirt dry cleaned, it was no longer the same exact color
as the two other pieces. I think my dry cleaner should pay for skirt,
don’t you?”
A. We could call this “The Case of the Suited Separates.”
In the store, all three pieces seem to be identical and they may be. However,
variations in color may be seen in daylight. Since they are “suited
separates,” they may be made in different workrooms from cloth from
different dye batches. It’s also true that one of the separates
may be cleaned more often than the others with some loss of color,
depending on the quality of the dyeing. You also want to check to see
if the care instructions in the three garments are the same. If not,
you may want to choose the separates that have the same cleaning recommendations.
Q. “I love the loosely woven jackets with the frayed edges,
but I’m concerned that they will not hold up over time. What
is your opinion?”
A. Fancy/novelty yarns create wonderfully interesting decorative
effects in fabrics and can be a great hit for the fall and winter.
They can be made from a variety of different fibers such as bouclé,
slub, nub, corkscrew, and ratine yarns.
But you are correct–these fabrics may have problems with durability
and maintenance. Due to the irregular twist and yarn structure, they
tend to snag easily, have decreased abrasion resistance and wear rapidly.
Their looser structure also makes them prone to stretching, shrinkage
and yarn slippage. This problem can be progressive and worsen after
several cleanings.
Taking extra care with jewelry, watches, belts, handbags, and buttons
that have pronged settings can help reduce snags. Reading and carefully
following the clothing care label instructions will also help prolong
the life of the jacket.
Q. “ I recently replaced a gabardine twill jacket because it
developed a shine in the shoulder area. How can I prevent this problem
from reoccurring?”
A. When you buy a fabric with a “sheen,” it can become
shiny from friction or excessive wearing. Friction from sliding in
and out of a car, carrying a briefcase, backpack or purse across your
shoulder can put pressure on the fabric and cause it to shine. Rotating
your wardrobe with other, easier-to-maintain fabrics such as wool,
flannel and tweed will result in a longer life for your jacket.
Q. “Can you offer some tips on how I can make my suits
last longer and still look sharp?”
A.Suits are a wardrobe staple for both men and women. They can last
a long time if cared for properly. Here are tips that can help extend
the life of your suits:
1. When you shop for a suit, consider the fabric as well as the
style. If you wear your suit repeatedly, look for sturdy materials and
if you travel often, look for wrinkle resistant fabrics.
2. Don't overload your pockets, which can strain the seams.
3. Be conscious of how you carry a briefcase, purse or backpack. If
you carry it across your shoulder, the weight can distort the shoulder
pad area and cause the fabric to shine.
4. Unbutton your jacket before you sit down. Also pull the pants/skirt
up at the thigh when you sit so you don't pull the fabric too much.
5. Hang your suit on a good wooden hanger.
6. Air your suit for about 24 hours before putting it away. It will
help dry moisture and rejuvenate wool since it is a natural fiber.
7. In your closet, avoid cramming it in between lots of other clothes,
which could cause it to wrinkle.
8. Depending on the quality of the dye, there may be some color loss
when cleaned; therefore, it’s best to clean the pieces of your
suit at the same time. If you buy “suited separates”, be
sure that the care instructions are the same in each garment and carefully
examine the color of each garment in the sunlight. It’s possible
that they are made from different dye batches and have a color variation.
Back To The Top
Sweaters
Q. “What do I need to know about buying and caring
for cashmere sweaters?
A.According to the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, which
tests garments to assure that labeling meets industry standards, the popularization
of cashmere in the last three years has put a glut of substandard cashmere
on the market. For example, a white cashmere sweater should not yellow
as it is not bleached and no brighteners are added. Better grades of white
cashmere are the yarn's natural color, a softer shade of white that's
somewhere between white and ecru. Purchase your sweaters from a reputable
company, look for a brand you trust, check the label to ensure it is 100%
cashmere, and ask about the testing policies for verifying the label information.
Here are some tips to make your purchase last longer:
• Allow your deodorant to dry completely before slipping
into your sweater.
• Don't spray yourself with perfume while wearing cashmere because
it stains the fiber.
• Extra yarn usually comes with a good cashmere purchase and it
should be saved for reweaving needs, if the sweater is torn or has holes.
• If the sweater is stained, have it drycleaned as soon as possible.
• Fold sweaters with tissue and store flat in a drawer or on a
closet shelf.
Q. “A couple of my thin fabric sweaters have stretched
out of shape. Is this due to the way they are cleaned?”
A. In the cleaning business, this is known as “the classic Jersey
knit problem.” The weight of the garment can cause it to stretch
just by being worn or hung up. This tendency to stretch can be aggravated
by the action of the cleaning and finishing process. At Anton’s,
we take the precaution of placing these knits in a mesh bag for cleaning
and dry them at a reduced temperature. We make sure there’s no pressure
or stress on a garment during the finishing process. This extra care produces
very pleasing results.
Q.“It’s the time of year for sweaters. What should I know
about taking care of them?”
A. Because there are so many different sweater fibers––acrylic,
angora, camel’s hair/cashmere/mohair, chenille, and wool––it’s
important to understand the care for each one. Here are a few care tips:
• Pay close attention to the care label. Don’t assume anything.
Acrylic, for example, can look like wool. The care of each can be quite
different.
• Keep sweaters clean. Treat stains immediately. When spills
are blotted immediately and professionally removed, stains are not as
likely to develop.
• Give your sweater a good shake after each wearing to remove
fluff and dust.
• Brush your sweaters after each wearing. This helps revive the
nap, if there is one, and removes any surface soil.
• If a sweater gets wet (and they do!), let it dry at room temperature
away from the heat and sunlight that can cause fading and then brush with
the nap.
• If a button falls off or a small hole appears, repair the sweater
quickly. The hole may get bigger if left unattended.
• Carefully remove any fuzz balls, also called "pills,"
that seem to grow on a sweater. These are caused by simple wear and rubbing.
To remove the pills, carefully use a sweater shaver, depilling comb or
even the hook side of Velcro. Avoid pulling them off as this can further
damage the fibers.
• Fold sweaters with tissue and store flat in a drawer or on a closet
shelf. Avoid hanging sweaters from the shoulders because weight distorts
a sweater’s shape.
• If washable, make a pattern of knit sweaters before washing by
tracing the outline of the sweater on a large piece of paper. This will
help block it back to its original size and shape.
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Swimsuits
Q. “Is there any special care I should give to
my swimsuits?”
A. Yes. The major problem is residual chlorine left in swimsuits. It can
cause damage to the fabric. Most of us hang swimsuits out to dry and then
put them away. Because of the possibility of chlorine damage, swimsuits
should be rinsed out before hanging them out to dry. Then, launder them
before storing away during the winter.
Q. “Do you have any suggestions to help prevent my bathing
suits from fading?”
A. While chlorine is essential for keeping the water in swimming pools
bacteria free and safe, it can cause your swimwear to lose color and fade,
if not promptly rinsed. Salt water and hot tubs can also speed up the
aging process.
Here are some care tips: • Hand wash the suit (if you must put it
in the washer, use a net bag and select the 'gentle' cycle).
• Fully disperse a mild detergent in the water
BEFORE placing the suit in it,
and take care to rinse thoroughly.
• To dry, gently roll the suit in a towel to remove excess water
and then air dry,
away from the sun.
• Avoid sitting or laying on abrasive surfaces, since they can cause
the elastic fibers in
your suit to 'snap' and snag.
• Be careful when applying sunscreens, oils, self tanners and insect
repellents.
They can react with the dyes in your suit and cause a color
change!
And here's a non- clothing care tip- don't be careless around the water
and never swim alone!
Back To The Top
Travel
Q. Our entire family is in a wedding in Oregon this
summer and there are many events planned. What should we do to be sure
that our clothes look great?
A. A wedding is one of life’s special moments and you want to look
your best. Careful planning is your first step. Determine how many outfits
you are going to need and assemble them first. There always is a tendency
to over pack and this can cause wrinkling or even damage to clothes. Select
fabrics that don’t wrinkle too easily–avoid rayon and linen
unless they have a synthetic blend. Silks, cotton knits and lightweight
wools generally travel well.
When packing, using stuffing tissue or putting a piece of plastic from
the drycleaner over each item of clothing in your suitcase or garment
bag can prevent wrinkling. When you arrive, hang the clothes as soon as
possible and remove from the plastic bags. If you need to iron the clothes,
be careful of shine–iron the clothes on the reverse side when possible
and use a pressing cloth or piece of white cotton muslin. Shine on a gabardine,
acetate or triacetate fabric will be very difficult to restore. Water
and spray starching can cause spotting on some fabrics, so use it cautiously.
With the proper planning, you can wear your clothes with style and grace
and enjoy the festivities without worry.
Q “I am glad to see the return of a more classic look this summer
and would like to buy some tulip skirts and blouses with ruffles and puffed
sleeves. I do a lot of traveling and don’t want them to get crushed
when I pack them. What do you suggest?”
A. Select fabrics that don’t wrinkle too easily–avoid rayon
and linen unless they have a synthetic blend. Silks, cotton knits and
lightweight wools generally travel well.
Don’t overpack which is guaranteed to cause crushing and wrinkling.
When packing, use stuffing tissue to keep the puffed sleeves from getting
crushed. Also, putting a piece of plastic from the drycleaner or stuffing
tissue over each item of clothing in your suitcase or garment bag can
prevent wrinkling. When you arrive, hang the clothes as soon as possible
and remove from the plastic bags.
If you need to iron the clothes, be careful of shine–iron the clothes
on the reverse side when possible and use a pressing cloth or piece of
white cotton muslin. Shine on a gabardine, acetate or triacetate fabric
will be very difficult to restore. Water and spray starching can cause
spotting on some fabrics, so use cautiously.
Back To The Top
Other
Q. "My son is furious with me. His baseball
uniform shrunk when I washed it. What can I do to avoid the problem in
the future?”
A. Sports uniforms get a lot of wear and tear in the spring! Too high dryer temperatures can cause excessive shrinkage and permanent wrinkles. Other common problems are color loss and mud stains. Uniforms are usually made from synthetic fibers such as nylon, polyester and spandex. Prior to cleaning, test the garment for colorfastness to avoid color transfer to other articles. Wash in a low temperature to reduce the chance of bleeding colors.
For mud stains, let the mud dry, brush off the excess and pretreat before washing. Before placing the uniform in the dryer, make sure all traces of the stain are gone. The Dryer heat will set stains, making them permanent, so if any discoloration remains, you’ll need to repeat the process above before drying.
Q. I am having trouble with zippers that won’t go up after washing.
Some are made of metal, but most are plastic. Are zippers really this much of
a problem?
A. When this happens, the cause is usually using too much detergent when washing
the garment at home. This tends to remove some of the lubricant in the zipper.
An easy way to solve most zipper movement problems is to run a candle up down the teeth once or twice. In the case of plastic zippers,
some drycleaners may press a garment at a higher than appropriate temperature
and damage a zipper. In this case it will need to be replaced.
Q. “Members of our family have their favorite baseball-type caps
that get very dirty. What’s the best way to clean them so they look
good and the bills don’t loose their shape?”
A. Here are a couple of suggestions. First, you can gently hand wash a
cap in mild dish detergent. After rinsing, let it air dry. Second, you
can get an inexpensive plastic cap form that’s made to keep the
cap’s shape while being washed. The big problem in washing a cap
is the bill. Since it usually contains cardboard, it can bend and even
become badly distorted while being washed. The hat form, which is available
through stores and catalogs featuring household items, helps solve this
problem. Once the hat is in the form, it can be washed in your dishwasher.
Avoid high temperatures since they can melt the plastic form and the plastic
hooks in the back.
Q. Can lights in a closet cause fading?
A. Yes! Use low wattage lights in closets and allow no direct sunlight
from windows or skylights as sun fading can result.
Q. “I received an invitation to a reception that says “corporate
professional”. What in the heck does that mean?”
A. Today’s terminology can be a bit baffling. At one time, there
was formal, business and casual attire. Today, we can have smart casual,
dressy casual, business casual and so on. Corporate professional means
suits of a single dark color, made of fabric like wool or linen. Some
like to call this “power dressing.”
Q. “I’m a soccer, football and basketball mom. And by default
a kids’ uniform caregiver. It seems like a full-time job…and
it is. With new uniforms, how can I keep the colors from running and bleeding
when I wash them?”
A. This is a popular question this time of year. While laundering is certainly
the best way to remove heavy soiling from kids’ uniforms, check
the care label for instructions. Bleeding of colors is often caused by
water-soluble dyes. Some manufacturers recommend washing in cold water,
since colors often bleed if washed at a higher temperature (such as mesh
jerseys). Uniforms are usually dried at low to medium temperatures, although
for some synthetics air-drying is recommended.
Q. “My office has a ‘business casual’ policy during
the summer month; yet, it is difficult to know what to wear because everyone
interprets the term differently. What do you suggest?”
A. It’s important to recognize that the way you dress sends a message
about your confidence, capabilities and judgment. Studies show that in
a corporate environment, casually-dressed workers run the risk of being
taken less seriously and earning fewer promotions.
Many image consultants suggest that men pair dress pants with a non-matching
blazer. Shirts should be high quality and neatly pressed since they are
seen above the desk. Slacks and skirts and unmatched jackets and collared
shirts work for women, also. Business appropriate dresses (no party-look
such as sun dresses and high hemlines) work as well.
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